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Coming Home: A Literary Driving Tour Of Adair County

This article first appeared in issue 37, and was written by Christopher Rowe.

The crisp air, the clear blue skies, and the first hints of red and gold in the leaves this weekend meant that it was time once again for me to take up my favorite fall habit, driving around and looking at things.

Since I had an out of town visitor to impress, I decided to be a little more systematic than usual. Most days, I'm satisfied to follow the hood ornament wherever it meanders, but this time I concocted a bona fide driving tour.

I could have shown my friend my favorite creeks in the county (Barnetts in the north, Crocus in the south) or the vistas from Jones Chapel Road and Tuckers Woods. Instead, I decided to concentrate on something that most of us don't think about enough, Adair County's rich heritage of literary personalities, sites, and accomplishments.

I humbly present to you then, The Literary Driving Tour of Adair County, with Notes and Commentary and Probably Not Enough Actual Directions (Subject to Amendment as New Information Comes to Light and Old Theories Are Called to Question).

The tour begins, as so many good things do, in Gradyville. The post office there was recently used as a set when Adair born director Jonathan Moore made his short film based on the story "Sawdust," by Rowan County's Chris Offutt. Offutt participated in the production, and his stories, memoirs, and novel are well worth seeking out. This Kentucky author is making a big splash on the national scene.

From the Gradyville Post Office, proceed toward Columbia on Kentucky 80. A few miles from town, you'll notice a roadside historical marker at the site of Colonel William Casey's home. A renowned soldier and settler, the good colonel was the great-grandfather of Adair County's most famous descendent, Samuel Clemens.

I'm going to suggest something radical for a driving tour now, which is that you park in downtown Columbia and stroll to the next few sites. That's right, get out and walk.

On Burkesville Street, you'll find the Columbia Presbyterian Church. From 1948 to 1953, the church was pastored by Albert Capwell Wyckoff, Columbia's most unjustly uncelebrated literary figure. "Cap" Wykoff wrote 29 books, including three while a resident here. Most of his work was in the Mercer Boys adventure series, which included a volume called "The Search for the City of Ghosts," one of my all time favorite book titles.

On your way to the Square, take a brief side trip down Fortune Street. At the corner of Fortune and Reed, you'll find the John Field House, where, reportedly, the "vivacious redhead" Jane Lampton married John Clemens in the early 1820's. Ms. Lampton was a granddaughter to Colonel Casey, and of course, the mother of Mark Twain.

Making your way onto the Square, you'll find another roadside marker--this one at the corner of Greensburg Street--with more information about Jane Lampton Clemens.

Next, take a look at the second story windows above Marie Booker's store on the corner of Campbellsville Street. According to local legend, Theodore O'Hara wrote at least a few stanzas of his famous poem "Bivouac of the Dead" here while visiting Columbia.

Depending on the weather--and your stamina--you might want to get back in the car at this point.

Head away from the Square along Greensburg Street and stop for a moment at the Adair County Library. Before you go in (and don't you think you should, really? When was the last time you checked a book out from the library?), look at the lovely new sign outside the front entrance. The Adair County library is officially known as the Janice Holt Giles Memorial Library.

From Greensburg Street, turn right onto Wall Street and drive (slowly!) though the Columbia City Cemetery. Cap Wykoff is buried here, near the two evergreens on the north side of the cemetery.

Make your way down the hill to Campbellsville Street, turn right then left up Lindsey Wilson. Lindsey Wilson College has been home to many writers and poets over the years. Most recently, LWC's Morris Grubbs drew national attention for editing the invaluable new collection of short stories by Kentucky authors, "Home and Beyond," which includes stories by Offutt and Giles.

Now it's time for the big finish, and the longest stretch of driving on the tour. The sites along both Kentucky 551 and Kentucky 206 are all well worth a look, and you have the choice now of taking either one, because we're finishing at our most famous literary site, beautiful Spout Springs.

Home of the late Adair writers Janice Holt Giles and Henry Giles, the cabin at Spout Springs is the subject of one of their best-known works, "A Little Better than Plumb." Try to pick a day when one of the knowledgeable docents from the Janice Holt Giles and Henry Giles Foundation will be present to give you a tour.

You'll have to find your own way home.



This story was posted on 2001-11-15 12:01:01
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