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Rev. Joey N. Welsh: A different kind of ceremony

Another Angle, the occasional musings of a Kentucky pastor. A different kind of ceremony. A column with Derby Day in mind, with recipe for Mint Julep. First published 30 April 2005, in the Hart County News-Herald
The next earlier Another Angle Rev. Joey N. Welsh: What would Mary Magdalene say. . . Easter?

By The Rev. Joey N. Welsh

Back when I was a college student I went to the infield at the Kentucky Derby several times in a row. I never had the need to repeat those experiences in later years, though they were mostly fun. I discovered on those occasions that I really need my personal space.



I don't like being herded around, jostled in crowds, or surrounded by folks who have drunk too much. I don't enjoy waiting in line to get into a yucky restroom. And I don't like being trapped in the crowded infield when rains come and the tunnel under the backstretch is the only exit. One year all of us who left after the big race looked like drowned rats. If I ever go back to the Derby, I want to go as the guest of someone up on Millionaires' Row. I'm not holding my breath while I wait for that to happen.

Mint juleps: the drink of irrational persons?

I also discovered something else. I don't think mint juleps are anything that a rational person should want to drink. I had one at one Derby and thought it was vile and medicinal. I tried one the next year, and I thought even less of the experience. Both times I was with friends who told me that I should not judge the mint julep on the basis of what is sold at the Churchill Downs infield on Derby Day. That may be true, but sometime later I was offered one at a fancy party, one made by the host with great care and served in a silver julep cup. I still thought it was gross.

Another friend confided to me that he thought the drink, even in the best of circumstances, was pretty bad. He then went on to say, "The mint julep is a cross we have to bear because we're from Kentucky and we need to drink the stuff once a year to be hospitable." For some reason, I don't think the mint julep was the cross Jesus was talking to his disciples about when he said, "If any of you want to be my followers, you must forget about yourself. You must take up your cross, and follow me." (from Mark 8:34, CEV version)I thought about the mint julep anew as Derby Week 2006 approached. The balloons are beautiful, the Pegasus Parade and the Great Steamboat Race are fun. But I never need to return to the infield, and I never need to come close to a mint julep again, ever.

Mint juleps: lovely to read about

There is one good thing about the julep. It can be lovely to read about. In one of my columns last year I wrote about the Buckners. Simon Bolivar Buckner was a Hart County native, General for the Confederacy during the Civil War, Governor of Kentucky, and Democratic Party nominee for Vice-President in 1896. His son, Simon Bolivar Buckner, Jr. was a U. S. Army General and the highest ranking U. S. officer to die in World War II.

Buckner, Jr. developed a wide reputation for his mint juleps, famously serving them once to President Franklin Roosevelt and Douglas MacArthur when the two came to West Point for graduation. While still serving as an officer on staff at the U. S. Military Academy at West Point, Buckner was asked for his julep recipe. He replied with instructions that are more properly thought of as a ceremony.

The description is poetic and evocative, but it still leaves me unconvinced that anyone should drink the stuff. Here, in honor of Derby Week 2006, is the text of Simon Bolivar Buckner, Jr.'s letter about the mint julep, sent in response to an inquiry from the General William D. Connor, Superintendent at West Point in 1937:
Mint juleps: Buckner's letter to West Point's superintendent

March 30, 1937

My dear General Connor,

Your letter requesting my formula for mixing mint juleps leaves me in the same position in which Captain Barber found himself when asked how he was able to carve the image of an elephant from a block of wood. He replied that it was a simple process consisting merely of whittling off the part that didn't look like an elephant.

The preparation of the quintessence of gentlemanly beverages can be described only in like terms. A mint julep is not the product of a FORMULA. It is a CEREMONY and must be performed by a gentleman possessing a true sense of the artistic, a deep reverence for the ingredients, and a proper appreciation of the occasion. It is a rite that must not be entrusted to a novice, a statistician, nor a Yankee. It is a heritage of the old South, an emblem of hospitality, and a vehicle in which noble minds can travel together upon the flower-strewn paths of happy and congenial thought.

So far as the mere mechanics of the operation are concerned, the procedure, stripped of its ceremonial embellishments, can be described as follows:
Go to a spring where cool, crystal-clear water bubbles from under a bank of dew-washed ferns. In a consecrated vessel, dip up a little water at the source. Follow the stream through its banks of green moss and wildflowers until it broadens and trickles through beds of mint growing in aromatic profusion and waving softly in the summer breezes.

Gather the sweetest and tenderest shoots and gently carry them home. Go to the sideboard and select a decanter of Kentucky Bourbon, distilled by a master hand, mellowed with age yet still vigorous and inspiring. An ancestral sugar bowl, a row of silver goblets, some spoons, and some ice and you are ready to start. In a canvas bag, pound twice as much ice as you think you will need. Make it fine as snow, keep it dry, and do not allow it to degenerate into slush.

In each goblet, put a slightly heaping teaspoonful of granulated sugar, barely cover this with spring water and slightly bruise one mint leaf into this, leaving the spoon in the goblet. Then pour elixir from the decanter until the goblets are about one-fourth full. Fill the goblets with snowy ice, sprinkling in a small amount of sugar as you fill. Wipe the outsides of the goblets dry and embellish copiously with mint.

Then comes the important and delicate operation of frosting. By proper manipulation of the spoon, the ingredients are circulated and blended until Nature, wishing to take a further hand and add another of its beautiful phenomena, encrusts the whole in a glittering coat of white frost. Thus harmoniously blended by the deft touches of a skilled hand, you have a beverage eminently appropriate for honorable men and beautiful women.

When all is ready, assemble your guests on the porch or in the garden, where the aroma of the juleps will rise Heavenward and make the birds sing. Propose a worthy toast, raise the goblet to your lips, bury your nose in the mint, inhale a deep breath of its fragrance, and sip the nectar of the gods.

Being overcome by thirst, I can write no further.

Sincerely,
S.B. Buckner, Jr.
[Robert H. Stone: You can find more information about the Buckners and this recipe at Buckners


This story was posted on 2011-05-01 06:12:39
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